| (Story 9) Bullfrog's (AKA Gordy Snyder) really great world tour - South Africa | |
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| South Africa Beckons As mentioned in the previous story, I was back at the Leela Hotel at the Mumbai airport by early afternoon. After working in the room until 19:00 PM, I enjoyed a small sandwich in the dining room, bought a small statue of the God Ganesha in one of the numerous gift shops in the shopping hotel arcade then went to bed. The alarm sounded at mid-night. Originally the South African Airways flight was scheduled for 2:20 AM departure. It was changed to 04:00 AM. Turned on lap-top, making one final check of email, took a warm shower and checked out of the hotel at 2:00 AM. The hotel driver wearing a soiled white uniform and white hat drove me to the airport. Very early arrivals and departures are common for international travelers. And hotel staffs are quite familiar with the schedules. I’ll bet that the room I vacated was cleaned and ready for an arriving guest within an hour; two occupants in one night equals twice the revenue. Quite a deal, I’d say. I gave the driver a tip for his help. The 4:00 AM departure from Mumbai was fairly close to being on time. Because so many passengers now use lap-tops during flights, on “newer” planes there are power outlets in the arm rests, extending the amount of time you can work without worrying about battery life. So far I’ve taken over 2,000 pictures and edit each one, checking for composition and color balance. The 9 hour flight to Johannesburg gave me the opportunity to work on pictures for four uninterrupted hours before closing the computer and sleeping for an hour or two. Several hours into the flight it was light outside, blue sky above and the blue water of the Indian Ocean below. It was dark inside the plane, however, with all the window shades pulled down. The seat reclined to almost horizontal position. Could really stretch out. And, with a warm blanket pulled up around my neck and shoulders, it was oh so cozy. And a good-sized pillow, as well. There were only 10 to 15 people in business class. Don’t know about the rest of the plane. Most of the passengers stretched out and slept for hours, some pulling the blanket completely over their heads. To my surprise, they didn’t show a flight map on the personal seat monitor during the first 7 or 8 hours of the flight, just during the final hour or two as we neared Jo-burg. For 5 to 6 hours we were over the Indian Ocean. Judging from the coast-line features and flight map in the South African Airways flight book, were crossed over land somewhere near the border between Mozambique and Tanzania. The cabin lights were switched on and window shades put up as breakfast was served 1-1/2 hours prior to landing. Fill out the customs forms. An uneventful flight. Clearing through passport control took 15 to 20 minutes, not because of the number of people but because there were only a few agents on duty when we arrived. The passport control agent places the Temporary Residence Permit in your passport, scans the bar code and with a big thud, stamps the date of arrival. Transit passengers must claim luggage, clear customs then recheck it to the final destination, in my case, Cape Town. Pass through the Green Line, nothing to declare. For big game hunters, it was a different story. They had to register their guns and ammunition at a special office before being allowed to clear customs. Despite the number of people with transfer flights, rechecking the luggage was very slow, there was only one agent at the counter. Each piece of luggage received a new bag check even though the original had the correct flight number and destination for the connection. Also receive a boarding pass with seat assignment then walk 10 minutes to the domestic terminal. Again clear through security and proceed to the gate and wait. During boarding I saw the ground crew handling one of my suitcases. It was a relief to know that at least one would arrive in Cape Town when I did. I’ve not have any problems with luggage the entire trip. Two times recently, my bags were the first two on the belt at the destination. To come out of that magic hole in the wall at baggage claim first was a real surprise. Most of the time, they appear midway through the baggage claim process. A most delightful seating companion on the flight to Cape Town was Audrey DuTort. She was returning home from a month-long holiday. I was assigned seat 3A, but sat in 4A by mistake. The person assigned 4A sat in 3A. Ms. DuTort (French pronunciation, please) and I had a most engaging conversation the 2 hour flight. Turns out she was quite a wine expert; there are many wineries in and around Cape Town that produce excellent wine. After we landed in Cape Town, I asked and she gave me permission to take her picture. After completing the paperwork for the rental car, I walked back to the international terminal to exchange dollars for Rand. Through an Internet search, overnight accommodations were set for that evening at Celtic Manor, a B&B east of Cape Town in Gordons Bay. There were no problems using the 5-speed stick shift or driving on the left side of the road. Just be careful. With excellent directions provided by Celtic Manor, I was at the front door at about 3:00 PM. A multi-level house built into the hillside, every room with a commanding view of False Bay, and Cape Town off in the distance. There was a small bar and expansive lounge on the entry level. The dining room and bed rooms were one level down. Pool and spa facilities were available. On the next level down were gardens with paths leading further down the hill to the businesses by the water’s edge. Large and comfortable beds with fluffy pillows complete the picture. Drive down the hill to The Tavern for dinner. Back up to the Celtic shortly after 21:30 PM. Was going to leave The Tavern earlier but a local resident bought me a beer and we talked for a while. Could have stayed longer but didn’t. Breakfast was prepared and served by Mustafa, a young man who had worked in several African countries before arriving in South Africa. He has separate living quarters at the Celtic Manor, earns a salary and performs many duties for the owners. This Sunday would be the first day for exclusively for sightseeing since leaving Pittsburgh in mid-April. With an interest lighthouses, I decided to visit two lighthouses on the Eastern side of False Bay, then continue on to the lighthouse at the farthest most southern tip of Africa at Cape Agulhas. It was a spectacular drive along twisting, turning road following the coastline. Wanted to stop and take pictures at every turn, but couldn’t. The 1st was the unmanned structure at Cape Hangclip. Along the dirt road were signs warning of baboons. A closed gate prevented driving the final ½ km to the site. After walking the private road for about 100 meters there were other signs warning “Private Property” and “The dog bits.” Baboons, a dog that bits, right. Discretion was the better part of valor. I opted to take pictures from a distance and returned to the car. This place is located about 5 km from nearest homes. Danger Point is situated on the southern tip of Walker Bay, near the village of Gansbaai. The two-lane road is paved right up to the gate. Danger Point is an easy-to-get-to, popular sightseeing destination. In front of me during the final 5 km was a car with 4 people making a similar tour. However, it was closed to visitors on the weekend. Settled with taking pictures from outside the fence. It was a long drive to Cape Agulhas, but filled with spectacular scenery. Rolling hill, huge sheep farms and vineyards. Couldn’t resist taking pictures. Luscious green color and some rain. A magnificent east to west rainbow appeared during the final 40 km south to the coast. It was overcast and misty when I arrived. There looming in front of me was the lighthouse. I continued past to the southernmost tip of the African Continent, where the Indian Ocean to the left meets the Atlantic Ocean to the right. Violent and unpredictable oceans. Heavy winds gusting. Asked two gentlemen to take a picture of me wearing the Continental jacket and holding the hat. The younger was a graduate student from St. Louis and the other a professor of Theology from Davenport, Iowa. Of all places to meet, the southernmost tip of Africa. Then over to the lighthouse for a closer look. Massive, thick walls. A museum, gift shop and small coffee shop in the main building. Paid a small fee and climbed steps to the very top. Wind howling outside. Opened a heavy steel-plate door and crouched through to the outside catwalk around the light. Up another set of steps up to actually look at the lens. Candlepower: 7,500,000 C.D., one flash every 5 seconds, range of 30 miles at sea. The same group I met at Danger Point was now here. We laughed and said hello. “Fancy meeting you here!” For anyone interested, go to www.lighthouses,co.za for information on these or other South African lighthouses. Mission for the day accomplished. Filled the car with gas and bought snack for the return drive. Heavy rain for the later half as neared Cape Town. Up and over Sir Lowrie’s Pass, past the bright red and white guidance lights at end of the Cape Town airport runway. To the V&A hotel on Victoria Warf with parking next to the hotel. Was offered a reduced rate because the hotel was undergoing renovation and the Internet was not available. The stores on Victoria Wharf closed at 9:30 PM. The only place still open, Terrymans Treehouse, offered a limited menu for late arrivals. The doors there were closed shortly after I walked in. Mine was the final meal served for the night. The V&A is convenient but expensive, the rooms are huge and the view spectacular. Security is tight, 24/7, not only for the hotel, but for the entire wharf. It’s a very popular tourist spot. Check out after buffet breakfast but would return on Wednesday for another night then the Thursday AM flight to Cairo. The destination for Monday morning was Saldnaha, 120 km north on N27 highway. Just north of Cape Town, actually the suburbs, pictures were taken in the rain of the Milnerton lighthouse. The rain stopped and sky cleared the farther north I drove. N27 is considered a two-lane highway. Along the side in both the north and south direction is a solid yellow line with sufficient space for a small car to fit before the actual edge of the pavement. The custom is for the slower car (or truck) to pull over on the berm while the faster car passes. Once passed, the slower car steers back to the normal driving lane. It works quite well at 110 to 120 km/hour and you get the hang of it fairly quickly. After three hours at the steel mill, it was over to Saldahna (a small city on Saldanha Bay) and check in at the Protea, another hotel located and reserved through the Internet. Because of outage scheduling, the next inspection visit would be Wednesday morning. It’s winter now in South Africa, with daytime temperatures in the 50s/60s. Not may tourists this time of year. The hotel was fairly empty. A lovely setting on Saldanha Bay. Worked for a while in the room on Tuesday, found the local tourist office to pick up a pamphlet then drove ~30 km north to the Cape Columbine lighthouse ~3 km from the quaint fishing village of Paternoster. It’s the first lighthouse usually sighted by shipping coming from Europe. Was given a personal tour of the lighthouse by the keeper. There are rental cottages on the property should you wish a vacation far off the beaten path. Continuing down the dirt road was Tieitiesbaai with numerous rocks to climb and beautiful, calm blue/green water. I claimed several shells off the sandy beach to bring home. Of course pictures then back to the hotel in Saldanha. Back at the hotel tried to establish Internet connection for email – no luck, packed a small box with collected “stuff” to send home by FedEx and finished work report from the second India visits. While trying to establish an Internet connection, the general manager of the hotel mentioned that he played center striker on an “all-black” South African professional soccer team. His nickname was “White Shark..” The inspection at the mill Wednesday morning was quite interesting and a first-time ever ride into a cold industrial furnace on a piece of steel. Flashlight and camera in hand, I was one of about 10 people inside the furnace. We emerged about one hour later through an opening in the roof. Returning to Cape Town, I again stopped at Milnerton to take pictures of the lighthouse on a clear day. With a brisk wind blowing, parasail surfers braved the rough water to pursue their sport. After returning to the V&A, I was off to the Green Point lighthouse about 2 km south of the center of Cape Town for pictures before returning the rental car. Shopping for small souvenirs at Victoria Wharf, chicken fingers for dinner at a sports bar and to bed. The alarm was set for 5:00 AM to get ready for the flight to Cairo. Everything went smooth until I reached Jo-burg. Despite my cautioning the check-in agent in Cape Town, he pulled the wrong ticket. Upon arrival, I was met in the plane by an agent from South African Airways. Going to the South African Airways ticket counter in the main terminal the problem was resolved, but was late getting to the Kenya Airlines counter in the International Terminal for the continuing flight north. I was concerned that my suitcases wouldn’t make the transfer. The plane was an older 737; not as spacious as the newer planes. The seats do not recline as far. The first intermediate stop was Nairobi, Kenya. Lush greenery compared to red sand of South Africa. Mild, balmy weather. Change planes. When checking in for the next flight, I was asked to show my “yellow card” for vaccinations. Learning several years ago that luggage transfer can be tracked – every baggage check has a unique bar code – the gate agent confirmed that both bags made the transfer and were on the plane. I was relieved. Didn’t want the hassle of chasing lost luggage upon arrival in Cairo. The next stop after Nairobi was Khartoum, Sudan. When we landed it the outside temperature was 105OF, and that was at 9 o’clock at night. The final leg was to Cairo, landing at about 23:30 PM. Purchase visa stamps just before passport control, $15 please, change from a $20 bill was given in Egyptian pounds. Near the baggage claim, a casually-dressed man, sporting a moustache with an official looking badge approached me about hotels and taxies. I tried being polite, finally telling him to get lost. He just wouldn’t leave me alone; I had reservations for a hotel and I was taking the hotel car from the airport. I wasn’t going to get taken as I was when I arrived in Shanghai, China 6 weeks earlier. I learned quickly about the Egyptian way – as I’ll call it. At the airport there was person wearing a suit, an employee of the Nile Hilton hotel. Then there was the tall gentleman with the cell phone who escorted me to the car. After placing the suitcases in the trunk and climbing into the back seat, and as I was closing the door, he looked at me and smiled, and while rubbing the fingers of his right hand together stated, “Something for me?” I reached into my pocket, gave him some money and pulled the door closed. Extortion, I thought. We were off. The driver was paid ~$30 by the hotel for the 20 minute ride into Cairo. That guy hung around me asking several time if everything was ok. He was begging for a tip and I refused. Finally he got the hint and went on his way. Despite being close to 1:00 AM, thousands of people were walking the sidewalks along the Nile River. Small boats with bright neon lights were cruising the river, packed with tourists. Cars, taxies everywhere. Cairo was alive. It all came to an abrupt halt at 4:00 AM, the first call for prayer. Hardly seems that six weeks have passed. I’ve been so many places, seen and experienced many things. And met absolutely wonderful people. It would be no different in Cairo. The sands of time to follow.  |
 Several hours into the flight to South Africa it was light outside, blue sky above and the blue water of the Indian Ocean below.  Judging from the coast-line features and flight map in the South African Airways flight book, were crossed over land somewhere near the border between Mozambique and Tanzania.  The cabin lights were switched on and window shades put up as breakfast was served 1-1/2 hours prior to landing.  Landing at the Johannesburg International airport.  During boarding the transfer flight to Cape Town, I saw the ground crew (standing on the truck by the nose of the plane) handling my tan suitcase. It was a relief to know that at least one would arrive in Cape Town when I did.  A most delightful seating companion on the flight to Cape Town was Audrey DuTort. She was returning home from a month-long holiday. Ms. DuTort (French pronunciation, please) and I had a most engaging conversation during the 2 hour flight. Turns out she was quite a wine expert; there are many wineries in and around Cape Town that produce excellent wine. After we landed in Cape Town, I asked and she gave me permission to take her picture.  Large and comfortable beds with fluffy pillows complete the picture at Celtic Manor.  Celtic Manor at Gordons Bay: A multi-level house built into the hillside, every room with a commanding view of False Bay, and Cape Town off in the distance.  View from the breakfast room.  Breakfast was prepared and served by Mustafa, a young man who had worked in several African countries before arriving in South Africa. He has separate living quarters at the Celtic Manor, earns a salary and performs many duties for the owners.  Sunday would be the first day exclusively for sightseeing since leaving Pittsburgh in mid-April. With an interest lighthouses, I decided to visit two lighthouses on the Eastern side of False Bay, then continue on to the lighthouse at the farthest most southern tip of Africa at Cape Agulhas. It was a spectacular drive along twisting, turning road following the coastline.  Danger Point is situated on the southern tip of Walker Bay, near the village of Gansbaai. The two-lane road is paved right up to the gate. However, the lighthouse was closed to visitors on the weekend. Settled with taking pictures from outside the fence.  A lovely flower at the Danger Point lighthouse. Can anyone provide identification? Left. It was a long drive to Cape Agulhas, but filled with spectacular scenery. Rolling hills, huge sheep farms and vineyards. Couldn’t resist taking pictures. Luscious green color and some rain. |
 A magnificent east to west rainbow appeared during the final 40 km south to the coast.
Right. |
 |
 Then
over to the lighthouse for a closer look. Massive, thick walls.
A museum, gift shop and small coffee shop in the main building. Paid a
small fee and climbed steps to the very top. Wind howling outside.
Opened a heavy steel-plate door and crouched through to the outside
catwalk around the light. Up another set of steps up to actually
look at the lens. Candlepower: 7,500,000 C.D., one flash every 5 seconds,
range of 30 miles at sea. |
 View from the 2nd floor room of the V&A Hotel on Victoria Wharf. |
 Dining room at the V&A, Cape Town, South Africa Right. The 2nd floor hallway of the V&A. In its former life, the V&A was a seaport warehouse. It now offers lovely and very comfortable accommodations.
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 Dining room of the Protea Hotel, Saldanha, South Africa |
 I located and reserved the Protea over the Internet. It’s winter now in South Africa, with daytime temperatures in the 50s/60s. Not many tourists this time of year. The hotel was fairly empty. A lovely setting on Saldanha Bay.
Right. |
 |
 Continuing down the dirt road past the lighthouse was Tieitiesbaai with numerous rocks to climb and beautiful, calm blue/green water. I claimed several shells off the sandy beach to bring home. |
 The quaint fishing village of Paternoster. |
 Returning to Cape Town, I again stopped at Milnerton to take pictures of the lighthouse on a clear day. |
 Another view from the V&A, with cloud-covered Table Mountain in the background. On a clear day, the view of Table Mountian is spectacular. |
 Heavy seas slam against the seawall at Green Point, about 2 km south of the center of Cape Town.
Right. Lighthouse at Green Point.
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 The trusty, 5-speed, stick shift rental car I used while in South Africa. I purchased 68.2 liters of "petro" and drove 945 km, that's 13.9 km/liter. You do the conversion and send me an email. |
 I purchased a CD of African music from this group. They were performing at Victoria Wharf. As I approached to buy the CD, a member of the group stepped forward to talk with me about the group and the music. |
The buildings at Victoria Wharf are outlined with bright lights at night.
Right. Boarding the first
of two Kenya Airlines flights on the way to |
 Landing at Johannesburg on the way north up the continent to Cairo, Egypt. 
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Upon takeoff, the area of Suetto is clearly seen below. Right. The first
intermediate stop was Nairobi, Kenya. Lush greenery |
 |
Planes and baggage handling at Nairobi, Kenya.
|
 When checking in for the next flight, I was asked to show my “yellow card” for vaccinations. Learning several years ago that luggage transfer can be tracked – every baggage check has a unique bar code – the gate agent confirmed that both bags made the transfer and were on the plane. I was relieved. |
Reboarding for the next flight.
Right. Hosing down a spill on the tarmac at Nairobi airport. |
 |
Mt. Kenya in the center-left, the 2nd
highest mountain in Africa at 5199 meters. Surpassed only by Mt.
Kilimanjaro in Tanzania at 5895
Right. The next stop after
Nairobi was Khartoum, Sudan. When we landed |
 |
 The
final leg was to Cairo, landing at about 23:30 PM. Purchase visa stamps
just before passport control, $15 please and change for a $20 was given in
Egyptian pounds. Near the baggage claim a casually-dressed man with an
official-looking badge and sporting a moustache approached me, asking if I
needed a hotel or taxi; “I have good deals.” I tried being polite, finally
telling him to “get lost!” He just wouldn’t leave me alone; I had
reservations for a hotel and I was taking the hotel car from the airport.
I waited outside the terminal (picture) for the hotel car to arrive. |
 Welcome to the Cairo Nile Hilton. |
Room 1120. Despite being close to 1:00
AM, thousands of people |
|
Along the side in both the north and south direction is a solid
yellow line with sufficient space for a small car to fit before the actual
edge of the pavement. The custom is for the slower car (or truck) to pull
over on the berm while the faster car passes. Once passed, the slower car
steers back to the normal driving lane. It works quite well at 110 to
120 km/hour and you get the hang of it fairly quickly.